Effendi

R. Dom Antônio de Melo, 77, Bom Retiro

11-3228-0295

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Back-streets, no-nonsense Armenian restaurant that attracts the most devout of esfiha lovers. The garlicky, open-faced variation with basturma—thin slices of seasoned cured beef—is the reigning class queen. Rose-printed tiles on the walls left over from decades past (from when Portugal still possessed Brazil as a colony, perhaps?) meeting an ornate ceiling give it a lost-in-time appearance, an aspect that matches the old men always hanging about. Alcohol seems to be a penchant for the owner here, but you can observe for yourself and be inspired to order a round of shots in between the ringing of the bells from the kitchen alerting waiters when food is pronto.