210 Diner

R. Para, 210

Higienopolis

11-3661-1219

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New York diner gets hoity Brazilian spin with lounge bar ambiance. Celeb chef Benny Novak (Ici Bistrot, voted the best French spot in town) leaves casualness behind at trailer-inspired front: Inside, hamburgers are far from the standard griddle variety, topped with high-brow foie gras and truffles; and how different Seinfeld would have been if they had been presented with Thai mussels found here, orderable with a Jack and Coke. Low ceilings, concrete floors, dark wood banquettes with traditional red naugahyde swapped for dark leather and formica switched for wood tables give it an almost late-‘90s French sophistication—if you left out the chrome accents at the bar and waiters in smart black trousers and ties and crisp white shirts dressing down in Converse sneakers, that is.