Izakaya Issa

R. Barão de Iguape, 89

Liberdade

11-3208-8819

• 

Small, shareable plates like pickled seaweed and even a Far East pizza crowned in bonito comprise most of menu, where shochu, caipirinhas and general libations are main attractions and food is the secondary in true traditional izakaya format. Custom stops there, though: Three lady co-owners—one of them rumored to be related to Kurosawa—(wo)man the counter not only making drinks and bolinhos de polvo (fried octopus balls) under lamps wrapped in flower-printed shades but serve them as well. Japanese salarymen and Brazilian finance and artist types trade jokes with the trio, whose jovial and upbeat personalities clearly compete with the food. The loyal get first dibs on the few tables; the truly faithful get shown the tatami room next to the kitchen. Photo: Phuong-Cac Nguyen