Bixiga Market

Praça Dom Orione

Bixiga/Bela Vista

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Gracing the lush-green oasis of Praca Dom Orione on Sunday morning and into the early afternoon is the Bixiga market, a snooper's paradise of junk, retro chic, religious kitsch and antiquities, brought to you courtesy of the same folks behind Praca Benedito Calixto's Saturday market. If you were ever looking to buy a marten stole and collectible samba records in one go, you've struck gold. Market vendors chew the fat with fellow stand-holders and bargain hunters alike, everyone shielded from the sun by white purpose-built awnings. Unofficial sellers line the sidewalks with goods of dubious origins laid out on grubby blankets. At the heart of the market is a small band stand, which has hosted the odd live-music event. At the edges of the plaza are various antique shops and artisan furniture stores, plus botecos, bars and restaurants whose clientele spill out onto the sidewalks. Live acoustic music drifts upon the air from restaurant Mamma Romano, while patrons sip frigid beers and ogle shoppers. Must-see items include antique collections of iron hooks and door knockers; melted-until-flattened glass alcohol bottles; and 1950s comic books. Photos: Crispin Cairns